Our cycle challenges
are an extremely effective way of fundraising and raising
awareness - they are tremendous fun and most importantly
raise significant sums of money. They are not open to anyone
who is suffering from an eating disorder as that would clearly
be detrimental to their health. They are aimed at those
who want a challenge and who have a sense of adventure some
of whom will specifically want to support the cause, but
if, at the outset, they are naïve about it, by the
end of the event they will have learned much.
When I set
out to organise our last event which took place in November
2000, it was very definitely going to be a one-off. It is
purely due to its overwhelming success and pressure from
many of my last participants to do another, I find myself
in the saddle again to repeat the experience.
As you will
have already read, this last challenge raised in excess
of £180,000 net and with this donation the Psychiatry
Research Trust has announced the establishment of a Fellowship
to be awarded on a regular basis to individuals undertaking
research into Anorexia Nervosa and other disorders of eating.
But this is
only the beginning. Our aim is to fund a Research Fellow
in perpetuity or to have a Chair endowed - to do this we
need to find £2,000,000. To achieve results in this
field we must be ambitious and create new and stimulating
blood into the development of this research and above all
have the funds for it to continue. Anorexia Nervosa has
the highest mortality of any psychiatric illness and if
we are to save lives and move forwards in finding the answers
we so badly need it is essential that we keep in the academic
forefront. It is one of the most chronic conditions suffered
by today's adolescents and almost everyone knows of someone
who has been affected. They may not though, realise the
true seriousness of it, or how life-threatening it soon
becomes.
Cycle
Chile Diary
by Jerry Thompson
Saturday
1 March 2003
The flight
to Santiago was something of an ordeal as most inter-continental
air travel is today - at 7,500 miles it's Lufthansa's longest
route. Most of us travelled from London to Frankfurt and
then on to Buenos Aires as first landfall in South America.
The remainder of the party flew via Madrid and then direct
to Chile.
If the flight was long - nearly 16 hours from Frankfurt
- the latter leg of our journey was rewarded with a two
hour flight between Buenos Aires and Santiago that carried
us in bright sunlight across the Andes mountains, a magnificent
sight.
After a briefing from Miriam Zumpolle, Classic Tour's manager
who will be in charge of our itinerary in Chile, we were
also introduced to Colo and Martin, the groundhandlers whose
role will also be key to our progress. An afternoon tour
of Santiago was ideal therapy to clear jetlag. After so
many winter months of training in either freezing conditions
or rain it was a real privilege to be greeted by a cloudless
sky and warm sunshine. The city centre features tree-lined
avenues, boulevards and grand squares. If Santiago lacks
many building gems, it's not for the want of trying. A succession
of Italian and French architects were brought in, only to
see their finest work undone by the earthquakes that regularly
ravage the region. Tomorrow sees the majority of the group
visiting a bodega - and hopefully a few samples - before
heading south by train to start our warmup ride on Sunday.
Tuesday
4 March
<<GASP-1>>
The grandeur of the scenery
<<GASP-2>> The gradients of the hills.
Trying to locate lava scree and soft sand tracks on the
Isle of Wight training weekends wasn´t quite like
the real thing here in Chile. Our "warm up" ride
of 55 kilometers Sunday invlved a lung-busting climb on
rough shale to the foothills of Longuinay Volcano. As one
rider said..."If that´s the rehearsal I´m
a bit worried about the main event." Wise words. We
were able to recover in the thermal pool at our hotel in
Manzanar before Monday´s 8.00am start on an 80 kms
ride to Trailanqui. This was a very tough challenge involving
lava fields, rough tracks and sandy trails - much of it
uphill on testing gradients. But it was offset by the most
spectacular backdrop of snow-clad volcanoes in the Conquillio
National Park, tumbling waterfalls, pine trees and the clearest
air imaginable. So when the going got extra tough, we stopped
to admire the tranquillity and beauty of this park. We reached
our accommodation that evening at 9.30pm - tired but elated
with a sense of real achievement.
Tuesday saw a slower start from the rigours of the day before.
We had time to recuperate and swim in the clear river before
tackling a 42 kilometer ride to Villarica involving the
first 21 kms off road and then 21 kms on tarmac. Never has
a group greeted riding among traffic with such a cheer,
as the going eased from a couple of tough offroad climbs!
Villarica is on a beautiful lake overlookd by its own snow-covered
volcano. Tomorrow (Wednesday) we´re back to a longer
distance at 85 kms to Panquipully. The riding hasn´t
erased the memories of Saturday´s trip to the Valdeveiso
bodega which most participants took, a three hour coach
ride south of Santiago. The setting and welcome from the
winery hosts confirmed again the warmth and hospitality
extended to us by all Chileans, which is becoming a major
feature of this trip. Saturday night we travelled south
to the town of Victoria by sleeper trin, and in coaches
built in Germany in 1935. They retained a sense of faded
splendour with burnished wood fittings, period lighting
and attendants whose level of service came from that era.
Wednesday
5 March 2003
Thus far we
have been blessed with the most beautiful weather. Apart
from a briefly cool and overcast start Wednesday each day
has seen cloudless skies and warm sunshine - a reward perhaps
for the days of freezing conditions and rain many of the
participants endured during their winter fitness training.
We moved into Chile´s Lake District Wednesday for
a day that combined lakes and a backdrop of towering volcanoes.
Steep pine-clad hills dropped down initially to Lake Calafquen
and latterly to Laguna Pillingue. With such a clear day
we were able to see across to Mount Lanin (3717 meters)
acros the border in Argentina.
After early undulating tarmac we met 25 kms of rough road
with some sharp inclines round Lake Pillingue but the team
has been energised by three days of tough riding and everyone´s
performance has improved beyond recognition. After two hard
climbs our well-earned lunch was taken in a pasture that
saw clouds of butterflies and grasshoppers amid cowslips
and heather - a scene some of the older participants said
they hadn´t encountered since childhood. A major feature
of today´s ride was the volcanoes, many of them with
whisps of smoke at their summit as a constant reminder of
their dormant power,and the wide range of beautiful trees
below the pine slopes with hawks quartering these lower
levels. The many wooden bridges traversing the lake gave
welcome opportunities for peaceful contemplation - usually
just before having to tackle the next climb! We arrived
in Panguipulli (town of roses) in late afternoon sunhine.
Since our quarters are spread throughout this small town
we are having supper in the main square. A popular feature
of the challenge has been the introduction of a Tour de
France style Maillot Jaune (yellow jersey) to one of the
participants thought to have done especially well during
that day´s ride. The winner wears the jersey the next
day. Winners to date are Michael Brown for reaching the
summit of the "warm-up" 9 kms sharp uphill ride
ahead of the field, Chrissie Wright for her unquenchable
spirit after having a kidney removed as recently as late
last year, and Robin Chapman for surviving two blow-out
punctures and still finishing up with the leaders. Participants
make their nominations to Johnny Collard who keeps us all
in entertained suspense at supper with a rollcall of the
good (and not so good!) before announcing the winner. Tomorow
Thursday sees us riding to San Xavier with the last two
hours of the day a trip by riverboat to reach our destination.
Thursday 6 March 2003
We said goodbye
Thursday to the logging town of Panguipulli and if the broom,
honeysuckle and trusses of ripe blackberries that cascaded
on to the roadsides put anyone in mind of home this notion
was soon scotched by the appearance of twin-span oxen carts
driven by Mapuche farmers taking their produce to town.
In any event, with 85 kms to cover we reluctantly had to
pass on fruit-picking.
Another cool start to the day, climbing sharply out of town
through rolling fields, forests and peaks of grey and purple
as we headed away from the cordillera towards the coast.
Undulating tarmac roads for the first 50 kms and our lunch
stop coincided with the sun breaking through as it had the
day before - and just before we tackled a tough 30 kms offroad.
Before hitting the gravel, we were met and accompanied through
Los Lagos by an official escort of Los Carabineros de Chile
(police). Word of our arrival had clearly spread and townsfolk
gave us a rousing welcome as we progressed through the town
- as did farmers throughout the offroad section.
The gravel included some tough climbs and the ride was made
even more taxing by the fierce sun that had now broken through.
But the compensations were breathtaking panoramas down steep,
wooded slopes of the Rio Calle Calle that flows from Lago
Rinihue to the Pacific Ocean at Valdivia. The higher reaches
of the river are characterised by clear, shallow green currents
with plate-sized stones and small islets reminiscent of
the Loire. Riders looked on enviously as local children
frolicked in the river but our turn was to come as we finished
this section to embark on two riverboats for the two-hour
transfer to Valdivia. Before departure most participants
took the opportunity to plunge into the Rio Calle Calle
and clear off the choking dust.
Our latest winner of the Maillot Jaune is Mark Harrison.
Mark also took part in the Vietnam - and other - rides and
thoughtfully always packs a range of small, useful gifts
such as pencils and crayons to be distributed on an ad hoc
basis to local children. While Chile is obviously a well-developed
country with a literacy rate better than 95%, many people
in the areas we are riding through are not well off and
any assistance is highly valued. The participants are seeing
fitness levels improve beyond recognition with each day´s
cycling which is welcome since Friday´s ride is 117
kms - the most demanding of the whole Cycle Chile challenge.
Friday 7 March 2003
Trying to winkle
information out of our gound crew about the day´s
ride ahead has led to some descriptions that have now joined
challenge folklore. "Nippy Hills"..."Inclined
Plains"..."Fairly Flattish"...and "Some
Undulations" are among them. But while we now understand
that a South Americn kilometer equates to about three miles,
in anyone´s language - and much of it was pretty industrial
on today´s ride - Friday´s 117 kms, or 73 miles,
is a long way. We departed Valdivia, again accompanied by
Los Caribineros, to tackle the longest ride of Cycle Chile.
A lolloping Labrador decided to join the expedition and
accompanied us for the first 18 kms of main road, skittering
in and out of the roaring traffic. But when we turned off
and he realised what we were facing, he turned tail and
fled. Wise dog. The side road was still paved but flattered
only to deceive. A swooping ride through some sharp, but
shortish undulations took us through lower hills reafforested
with quick-growing eucalyptus trees - mainly for woodpulp
to print newspapers on - and basic wooden homesteads with
subsistence farming.
At 40 kms, the paved road turned to gravel and we then faced
an exhausting 16 kms climb in rough conditions that sapped
energy and tested willpower. But the dogged spirit of the
group, and our improved levels of fitness, dragged us up
those unforgiving slopes. At the top we were greeted by
lunch, the start of another tarmac section and a small,
blue clapboard church for those who wanted to give thanks
for deliverance from the gravel tracks. There was, though,
to be no deliverance. Another endless, winding climb took
us upwards before dropping down into La Union followed by
a predictable uphill grind to leave this town. A switch
to undulating gravel road led to the ferry station on the
Rio Bueno. The "ferry station" was one man and
a dog with a wooden hulk pushed by a small boat and outboard
motor. We crossed in relays and even managed to get the
vehicles across in the same tub.
By now we had travelled 90kms and the heat, dust and pummelling
of rough roads were taking their toll. But we now faced
a further 12 kms drag upwards towards Osorno.
By the time we reached the summit riders felt they were
surgically attached to their bikes and had the scars and
pain to prove it. Bandages covered a range of ailments but
strong fellowship and a dose of gallows´ humour kept
the group going. As one rider put it...all roads in Chile
end on the moon.
Beyond the Rio Bueno we were in cattle and crops country
and the late afternoon sun burnished gold the stretching
cereal fields - some harvested and some whole - bordered
by dark evergreens and a background of five distant volcanoes
in the Andes.
The appearance of smooth tarmac for the final 9 kms into
Osorno brought a huge cheer as we quit the noise and dust
of gravel. A real sense of achievement was evident as we
entered the town after 11 hours on the road. An exhilarating
but exhausting day.
Osorno was a centre of Germany immigration and tonight´s
dinner is appropriately at the restaurant Bavaria. Our latest
Maillot Jaune winner is Vincent Neate who deservedly took
the jersey for his determination to crack the code behind
how to ride hills.
After figuring out the best way to tackle the steep bits,
he was telling anyone who would listen, cigarette glowing
at every riding break, that the simple numbers 1 and 1 were
key to the lowest gearing. Vincent´s a chartered accountant.
Tomorrow, Saturday, it´s 86kms to Frutillar.
Saturday
8 March 2003
There we stood,
this band of chums
Our aching limbs, our Vaseline´d bums
A more subdued
group Saturday as we gathered in Osorno for the 86 kms ride
to Frutillar. After the giddy euphoria of Friday when a
sense of achievement associated with completing the battering
117 kms of mixed gravel and tarmac offset the heavy toll
that hard riding had taken on us, the bumps, bruises, scratches
and aching joints now had 12 hours to remind us of their
presence.
While these battlescars were proudly borne, a cool wind
and light rain was a slight dampener as we pulled out. The
opening road was flattish farmland and without the grand
scenery that has done so much to lift spirits at the toughest
moments. Lunch as taken at Puerto Octay, a small lakeside
town nestling in the crook of some hills and looking as
if it had been transported to Chile from the Alps with its
needle-steepled church and balconeyed houses with ornate
eaves.
Everyone´s mood was lifted as a warm sun broke through,
easing aching joints.
Then it was off climbing on our way to Frutillar. If the
countryside prior to Puerto Octay was featureless, the transformation
afterwards was nothing short of a revelation.
Lago Llanquihue, an immense inland sea of 870 square kilometers
was the foreground far across the lake to the Mount Fuji-like
Volcan Osorno (2652 meters) snow-capped and a stunning sight
made all the more extraordinary because the lake is not
surrounded by the extremes of country normally associated
with volcanoes, but by gently rolling pastures dotted with
Friesian cows.
In little over a century this region has been transformed
by German, Swiss and Austrian settlers into some of Chile´s
finest dairy farmland. Neat gardens and shingled churches
were a constant reminder of these immigrants´ origins.
Groups and single riders stopped constantly on this leg
to absorb its peace, beauty and the volcano´s majesty.
We finally reached our destination in Frutillar at 5pm,
a welcome change from all previous nights when, because
of the length and challenge of the ride, arrival times have
been well after 8pm, leaving time only for a quick bath,
late supper and bed before an all too early wake-up call.
As we rode into town some of the girls eyed up a large sign
that read "Bandas Vibratorias." Alas, it was merely
rumble strips.
Not many months ago, quite a number of participants would
have found Saturday´s 86kms ride of 86kms either beyond,
or at, the extreme of their endurance. It says much for
the dedication and training programs of the group mostly
in cold winter conditions that Saturday´s ride was
completed comfortably, despite the nagging injuries many
are carrying. However, one participant who mused mid-ride
whether we should include some off-road was given an injection
and sent to lie down!
Le Maillot
Jaune Winner.
His "parish
notes" are one of the highlights at supper as the latest
winner of the day´s Yellow Jersey is finally teased
out. Individuals´ foibles may be gently lampooned
but he also always unearths those small unbidden acts of
kindness that are the group´s connective tissue. And
behind the banter, the arched eyebrows and knowing looks
lies an unerring judgment that ensures the yellow jersey
always ends up with the day´s worthiest recipient.
So to universal acclaim, stepping up as the latest Maillot
Jaune winner was our own urban fox, Johnny Collard. But
sensaing perhaps that his own rugged form might not set
off the jersey to best effect, or perhaps moved by chivalry,
Johnny immediately reassigned it to the cool, svelte, blonde
Flying Dutchwoman Sonja Nauta, whose courage in conquering
the gravel hills meant she arrived at the summit a full
eight minutes ahead of the nxt rider - and epic of endurance
and sangfroid.
Tomorrow, Sunday, is our final day as we head for Puerto
Varas.
Day 11 -
THE FINAL RIDE
Cycle Chile
has been so long that we're crossing time zones. After expecting
to be called for lunch at the hotel in Frutillar on our
final riding day, Sunday, we were advised the time was in
fact an hour earlier - so a little more time lakeside where
the evening before we had been reduced to awed spectators
as the sunset gradually washed the snowy peaks on Volcano
Orsano and its neighbouring mountains with delicate shades
of flamingo pink and violet.
After lunch we set off on a 38 kms gravel ride to the finish
line at Puerto Varas. As the road switchbacked, vistas of
Lake Llanquihue and the volcanoes on the far shore would
suddenly appear between the trees and golden fields.
With so many kilometers under our wheels and fitness now
at a peak, this was a relatively short hop. Participants
made more stops, perhaps acknowledging that Cycle Chile
would be over later that day and wanting to imprint the
continuing grandeur of our surroundings, although some of
the hills we encountered were among the sharpest of the
whole challenge. The arrival in Puerto Varas saw us warmly
welcomed by townsfolk, a message of support for RIED from
the mayor, Formula One-style flying champage and a finishing
tape threaded with discarded Cycle Chile T-shirts. It made
a pretty filthy-looking washing line - but an accurate reflection
of the sweat and dust over eight days. In true South American
style there was a band waiting for us in the main square.
Children in traditional Chilean dress - the girls in petticoated
frocks, the boys in boots, leather chaps, rowelled spurs
and flat-topped hats - danced for us and then shyly pinned
Chilean ribbons to our Cycle Chile T-shirts.
Completing Cycle Chile was a proud moment, each of us in
the private knowledge of conquering our own different personal
challenges over more than 600 kilometers. Equally importantly,
we had also grown and prospered as a group from the widest
backgrounds and geography. As we hugged and reminisced about
the many peaks and troughs there were some tears - relief,
yes, but also mixed with regret. Tough as the challenge
had been, it was now done and with it the close of a focus
over many months on fitness, fund raising and the anticipation
of mixing with a new culture in Chile. The success of Cycle
Chile was going to leave a void.
It was time to say goodbye to our cycles - we had often
cursed them but they had carried us through and absorbed
astonishing levels of punishment - and the ground crew.
Miriam from Classic Tours, back-up team leader Marcelo,
driver Antonio, another Marcelo the bike technical supremo,
cameraman Martin, paramedic Gustavo, Colo who led the party
on the road each day, a further Gustavo, also a guide, as
was Lola. The crew's enthusiastic participation was a key
element of the challenge's success.
But we felt there had been a ninth, invisible crew member
- team leader Marcelo's wife Maria Lauro - who kept us fuelled
with an endless supply of the most delicious home-made cakes,
biscuits and pastries. These boxes of goodies were keenly
anticipated at our stops and we regretted not having an
opportunity to tell her personally how she had sustained
our stomachs - and lifted our spirits.
The previous evening we had our penultimate Maillot Jaune
winners. It was a double award, to Jerry Thompson who sent
notes to the Psychiatry Trust web site on each day's activities,
and physiotherapist Helen Booth. Helen normally practises
in Somerset but for the last eight days unselfishly ministered
to wounded cyclists on Chilean roadsides, easing aching
limbs and gently mending muscles. She was much in demand.
Our last evening
dinner started with Chilean dancers who encouraged participants
to join them in traditional steps. We did our best without
matching their elegance. As with all Chileans we encountered,
they radiated a pleasure in greeting us with an openness
and enthusiasm that was a notable element of the whole challenge.
The after dinner entertainment we made ourselves - as is
traditional at the end of these challenges. For impromptu
performances dreamt up at such short notice, the wide range
of talent available was astonishing. Singers, comedians,
satirists, actors, a conjurer, slapstick, we had it all.
Vincent Neate was our MC for the night with Ken Pardey co-ordinating.
There was a briefing from Nina Jackson, who gave a formal
vote of thanks to everyone's sponsors, adding that to date
£140,000 net had been raised for RIED, warmly applauded
as we drank a toast to our generous supporters.
There remained
only one task - the final Maillot Jaune award.
The vision in selecting such a tough, but rewarding challenge
in Chile allied to the skills needed to organise a highly-disparate
55-strong party and raise substantial sums, would test a
fully-staffed travel company. Nina Jackson's encouragement,
determination and enthusiasm was acknowledged as the guiding
force behind Cycle Chile and the yellow jersey was presented
to her - signed by all riders.
The final couplet in Nigel Hunt's perceptive poem - Ode
To The Yellow Shirt - he read that evening summed up sentiment
With love and
to Nina our highest award,
From yellow to gold, with one accord.
The next day
we were off on our separate ways - some home to UK, while
others explored more of this fascinating country of contrasts,
including Easter Island.
Also - check out last year's
Cycle Vietnam